Sinh [sin] noun: Traditional Laos skirt worn by women all over the country.

Thursday 26 December 2013

A Very Laos Christmas


My Christmas in Vientiane was not too dissimilar to what I might experience at home. There was food, wine, talking crap about religion, politics and hairstyles. There was even carol singing!
There was food and wine and then a lot of lying around feeling full

Sunday 22 December 2013

My Christmas Letter to Friends and Family

Reluctantly (and yet with the usual delight in talking about myself), I have prepared a "Christmas letter" for the first time in my life.  Enjoy. Or don't. Whatever.

 

Saturday 21 December 2013

Wiangchan or Winterfell?

It's cold. How the hell did that happen? Sure, I know I'm in the northern hemisphere and it's Christmas, but I'm also in a South East Asian country where I've been hot, sweaty, red-faced and exhausted for most of this year. This is an unexpected shock to the system.

Rugging up at Talat Sao

Thursday 28 November 2013

The Red Prince


Yesterday I met the Red Prince at his house

Not in the flesh – he died in ’95 – but definitely face to face.

Prince Souphanouvong, first President of Laos PDR

Wednesday 20 November 2013

Known Unknowns


There are known knowns; there are things we know that we know.
There are known unknowns; that is to say, there are things that we now know we don't know.
But there are also unknown unknowns – there are things we do not know we don't know.
 Donald Rumsfeld 2002

Sometimes I think that knowledge has a different value in Laos than I am used to.


I don't mean the knowledge that's coded into dusty libraries, or big picture knowledge about how the world works - or doesn't work, or who Ghandi or Che Guevara were. I mean knowing what's going on and where and when: information, data, details.
(Although knowing who Ghandi and Guevara were doesn't seem important either).

Thursday 14 November 2013

Jars and Bombs

The Plain of Jars,

Xieng Khouang, Lao PDR

Are these carved rocks iron-age funerary urns? Perhaps. Some people say they are tubs for distilling Lao rice whiskey and some believe they were created by an ancient race of giants who roamed the plains before the Laos arrived. They have been targets for USA bombardiers offloading excess bombs in the 60s - 70s. They have confused and intrigued many people for many years. Me included.

Stone jars

Sunday 10 November 2013

Cracks, Crocks, Canoes and Cocktails

I haven't blogged for a while. Been busy. Lots of work, then Mum visiting... now I'm nursing a broken collarbone, checking the bruising daily to determine the optimal moment for taking a photo to elicit sympathy. Apart from feeling sorry for myself and learning to do stuff one handed, here's some of what I've been doing...

Monday 21 October 2013

Monday 7 October 2013

Keeping yourself nice

Staying pretty and smelling sweet in a hot and dusty Asian town can be difficult.

 
It's not just the lines of grime circling my neck or the sticky-rice goo stuck under my nails. The heat induces unsightly sweat marks and a red face and a strong sense of "who gives a sh*t what I look like?". (Or maybe that's just me?)

Thursday 3 October 2013

My brother's visit

A few photos from Brian's visit to Laos and our travels around Vientiane and Vang Vieng

(pretty much the same as the ones on Facebook)


Thursday 19 September 2013

Giving Alms and Nourishing the Dead

I don’t go in for much ‘woo’. In fact being an atheist is an important part of who I am. And yet I jumped at the chance to tag along to a ritual-filled morning of blessings and prayers and feeding spirits of the dead.


The Lotus - some see a symbol of Buddhist thought - I see a pretty flower that would look quite nice in a garden water feature
After wangling myself an invitation to this morning’s ceremony, I couldn’t really complain about the sacrificed sleep. I got up early, donned a sinh and went to the wat.

Saturday 14 September 2013

Picnicking With the Elephants - my photo album

Last Saturday I went with a bunch of friends to see some elephants and to eat great food and to drink wine and beer.

We did lots of all of the above and here are my photos to share the love...
Mum, Dad and the kids out for a stroll

Thursday 5 September 2013

Bouquets and singing energisers


Meetings in Laos are not what I expected. Apart from looking, sounding and feeling unfamiliar, they seem to be strange machines running along unfamiliar tracks with engines fuelled by strange ideas. Strange to me, anyway. But pretty fabulous too! There is singing, flowers, tropical fruit, coffee and butchers' paper. A recipe for success if ever I heard one.

 
A conference


Sunday 18 August 2013

Zooropa

Lao Zoo aka 'Vientiane Zoo', 'Baan Kuen Zoo' or just 'The Zoo' (there is only one public zoo in Laos).

Seemed like a great idea at the time - catch the bus to Vientiane zoo for a few hours on Sunday.

Wednesday 14 August 2013

LARP YOU LONGTIME!


Some days (most days) things can be a bit confusing at work. I often tune out to the chatter in the office as I don't understand most of it (I tune back in when I hear my name - kind of like a dog pretend-sleeping on the kitchen floor). Often I am slaving away over a hot keyboard when the clock hits 11.23am and the cry goes up "eat lunch!". The other day it wasn't until 11.25am (I'm not exaggerating - I check my watch each time as a part of my own personal unofficial active research project) and the call across the floor was something about going to eat LARP.

Larp is something special. It's the Laos "national dish". Describing it as a cold meat salad just doesn't do it justice. There's always a lot of mint, lime juice, fish sauce, often coriander, usually a few too many chillies, shallots and in some cases the parts of animals that would otherwise not make it onto Masterchef.

Eaten by hand with balls of sticky rice, washed down by icy cold beer - mmmmm - heaven on a plate (and in a glass).
 
I love that the Lao word for "mint" translates to "vegetable good scent larp" or, more grammatically correct "the herb that makes the larp smell good" (not an official interpretation but close enough).

larb recipe A plate full of goodly tastiness - A Whole Lotta Larp

So, back to 11.25 at the office... where the call had just gone up for larp...
 
I said thanks but no thanks because I brought my lunch today (a rare occurrence, admittedly). Confusion reigned. "No" was not the right answer. Eventually I realised we were all going out for larp. No choice. And not just everyday old larp, but DUCK larp. Wow! Duck larp. Somehow that meant something. I feigned excitement and gave in.
 
I had to check - are we going in the car? (thinking perhaps someone had brought food to the office-cum-kitchen downstairs) Yes! Everyone is going in the car. OK. So here we go for another training department lunch. I clicked "save" and grabbed my bag...

Downstairs I realised we really were ALL going in the car.  The Federation's minibus had already done a couple of trips and was pretty much full again when we got to it. We crammed in. I counted 18 blue-shirt clad employees (Monday is blue shirt day) plus one with a purple cardy (it WAS below 32 that day so she was probably cold). So... not just the training section then?

 
18 of us in a 12-seater
 
On the way I tried to find out what the occasion was. Not that Lao people NEED a reason to party and drink beer in the middle of the work day. But I assumed something was up. I asked. I was told. I still didn't really get it. Someone had a card and so we wouldn't have to pay? That's what I think I was told. Huh? Umm, OK. (I was thinking of vouchers or shop-a-dockets or something. I realised I was probably way off track but that's where my head went at the time.)

We arrived. EVERYONE was there. Even a couple of colleagues' kids were there.
 
Larp, larp will keep us together

The food was laid out, the beer was poured over ice, the whole gang was there. I sat near unfamiliar people who freaked a bit because they didn't know what to say to me without their lack of English being obvious. So they said nothing, smiled and put more food on my plate.

Larp is all around
 
It turns out that one of the guys at work had bought a new CAR. Therefore he was shouting everyone out to a larp lunch. Of course. Why didn't I just know that?

And here's a little window into the day's eating pleasures...

Not larp. Congealed blood covered with tasty stuff (just to fool me)

Vegetable matter - of some sort. Fresh and tasty, though!

Larp is all around...

The lovely Syfong and her friend who speaks a bit of English and whose name I really must learn

A photo of no great importance - but it adds to the general ambiance (chaos, confusion)
This place is now known (to me) as The Larp Shack

I ate happy ignorance. I refused the beer (that pillow I have under my desk has already had a bit of a workout lately. This time I wanted to stay awake all day). My colleagues mostly chatted to themselves and sometimes to me - usually raising their voices and repeating complicated sentences in a tone usually reserved for the elderly, deaf, demented and incontinent. I still didn't quite understand. So I smiled and kept eating.
 
Dessert - an unnamed melon and some bland but pretty dragon fruit - it was great!

But enough about the food. There were interesting things going on just around the corner - or behind the kitchen counter...

...like the kitchen staff's footwear:

Non-regulation angry bird slippers
 
The dish pig cat helping out in the kitchen...

Scrawny filthy disgusting moggy helping out with the dishes. Ewwww.

The ever-present Beer Lao umbrellas

Never let it be said that the Laos are not "wholehearted" beer drinkers
 
Lao Beer Company also provides plastic containers for tissues and toothpicks. How thoughtful! The square ones are nicer than the round ones - even if the round ones do fit a toilet roll perfectly.
 
Tissue? Toothpick?
 
By the time we all crammed back into the minibus and got back to the office there was not a lot left of the day and not a lot of energy in the room. I decided to leave my questions about strategic planning until another day. Anyway, as they say here (and also across the river if I remember correctly) "don't be serious!"

And as I say (and am considering for my own personal mantra and maybe even tattoo)...

Larp is all you need
or
Can you feel the larp tonight?
or
Larp like there's no tomorrow
or
Eat, Pray, Larp
or
Tonight I celebrate my larp for you

or (my favourite)...

LARP YOU LONGTIME!

Sunday 11 August 2013

Angry Birds. Twitching in Vientiane

I'd love to be knowledgeable about birds. I reckon I could have been a good twitcher. If only I actually knew one bird from another. Developing an interest in bird watching (one of those things that I once scoffed at and now embrace in all my middle-agedness) I was hoping to find a deeper appreciation for my Lao surrounds through knowing a little bit about what I was looking at. It's not easy. I've seen very few and I can't identify much of what I have seen.
 
Disappointingly, the only interesting birds I've spotted in Vientiane have been domesticated - mostly caged. Apart from sparrows and those annoying common mynas (annoying in Melbourne, anyway), there's not much around in town.
So I went to the pet shops with my camera.
 
Bulbuls
 
A pretty Red Whiskered Bulbul
 
There are a lot of these cute little Bulbuls around. All caged, sadly.  I had no idea what this was but my nephew Finn (aged 9) is a brilliant bird identifier so has been helping me out.

More  Bulbuls but much more crowded and much less pretty.

Stork
This large, startling stork lives at a temple - Wat Si Muang. Again, Finn identified it for me.

The Lesser Adjutant Stork
 
Swallows?
I don't know what these little birds are. They flit around the Patu Xai monument, live in mud pies attached to the inside ceiling and dart all over the place chasing insects and dropping poo onto tourists heads. I think they may be some type of fan-tailed swallow or martin?
 
Fast and furious

Gotta be quick to take a pic

Nesting on the ceiling

In the serpents' mouths. An appropriate place for a swallow

Sparrows
All over the world these boring old birds look the same. Maybe they aren't the same but they look it to me. Here they look thin.

Boring and brown
 
Turtledoves
I know these. I used to have one nesting near my front door at home. Not very exotic or interesting in Melbourne - you'd never see them caged for sale. Here things are different...
 
Poor little thing
 
 
 
Hill Mynas
These things talk a lot. They can mimic human voices so, despite being rather average to look at, they are common in cages across Asia. They squawk a lot too.

Hill Mynas- your classic angry bird. 

Ugly, but they talk.
 
Finches
Don't know what sort of finch this is. It's kind of like a Zebra Finch but a bit different. There were about a zillion in one cage.

Finches
 
Love Bird
I think it might be a Peach-Faced Love Bird but the peach has faded - and he was all alone so not a lot of lovin' goin' on.
Solo - but smiling!
 
 
 
Dunno What This Is
Big brown head, short tail, bigger than a finch, kind of cute. What is it?

Big, unfamiliar bird
 
Quail or guinea fowl or something?
 
Dunno what ground bird this is - it's probably more often seen on skewers... like these...
 
 
Budgerigars
Good old familiar and colourful budgies are a pretty and joyful sight - except when there are too many crammed into a small cage.


 
Cages
Some of the wooden cages look gorgeous - ornate and pretty and they have a sort of Victoriana look about them. They are still cages though.


Cage hooks - I'm thinking I'll bring some home but not sure what I'll do with them
 
Pet shops
Kind of like a car crash - I wanted to look but I knew I wouldn't like what I saw.

 Curious to look at but leave you with a sadness
And lastly... a chook
Probably not on the average twitcher's list