Mulberries and Mudbricks

Vang Vieng Organic Farm

We'd planned to do a cooking class but, like so many plans made in Laos, this didn't quite go as we'd expected. It worked out pretty well though!

Scooting the Loop - Thakek

An Adventure on Two Wheels

In November  '13 I had a conversation with a friend about doing the "Thakek Loop". A few friends had done it and it looked like fun. Four days on motorbikes scooting around the Laos countryside. What's not to love? We started planning.

LOVE and other delusions

Last week was Macha Bucha Day. It was also Valentine's Day. Guess which one won Lao hearts?

Macha Bucha Day:

According to Buddhist tradition, about 2500 years ago Siddhartha Gautama had become the first Buddha after working out the meaning of life. He was wandering around northern India preaching and converting people to his new way of seeing the world when one full moon evening 1,250 men turned up spontaneously to listen in. These guys became his ordained monks. The Buddha taught them three basic principles: Cease from all evil; Do what is good; Cleanse one's mind.

The master and his apprentices

 So on the third full moon of the year Buddhists celebrate, go to the temple, walk around it carrying candles, pay respects to monks, the Buddha and the spirits of the area.

I saw none of this.

But I did see a lot of red hearts.

River Song

We Went to Wang Wieng for the Weekend.

(OK, so without the Laos accent it's called Vang Vieng. But that didn't sound as good. I love a little alliteration!)

This post is partially to show off what a cool time I had recently, but also to show how spectacular the scenery is a little way up north.

And some might be wondering whether to add it to your Laos itinerary. I vote yes.

 

Yes!

 

If you've heard of this place recently it is probably because of some sad and nasty experiences had by some fun-loving back-packers when filled with grog and other stuff and doing dumb things in fast running rivers.

It was the scenery that called my name. And the river, Nam Song. (River Song). I've been here before but so long ago I've forgotten everything except the limestone karst panorama. There wasn't much to do here back then. Certainly no water sports and over-indulging. Not that I remember anyway!

River Song and her jagged panorama

 

It still attracts backpackers. Young and gorgeous; grubby and underdressed; funded by parents and carrying iPads and secret little stashes in the bottom of their packs. (I suspect).

But there weren't many people of any age around. The place was pretty quiet, We'd expected a fair bit of doof doof  and a dose of 'falang cringe' but the doof was minimal and the bogans were rare.

A few falang

 

With signs like this around can you blame us for tensing in anticipation of 24 hour party people?

 

Fat Monkeys. "Free beer... Laughing gas...Come in and get drunk". I feel so old.

Although slightly older than the targeted demographic, we went tubing.

Loaded up and ready to toob

"And don't the kids love it!"

 

It's not exactly an 'extreme sport'. We floated calmly down the river, gazing in awe at the mountains above. We stopped for a drink and a snack enroute. Kids threw ropes attached to water bottles over our heads. We caught the ropes, they towed us in. We scrambled bare-footed up the bank to the bar. Life in the third world can be so difficult.

We also went "caving". This basically meant sweating our way up a zillion steps then through a great cave that looked like a whale's belly.

I know how Jonah must have felt. Not enough to make me repent, though.

Walking across the bridge to the cave

Looking back across the flat side of the river
 

We stopped at a little temple thing with a statue of Kuan Ying (Buddha in female form), incense and lots of ants.

Kuan Ying

Incense crawling with insects

Gingerish

Another little temple thing

Hanging around. Sweating a lot.

Green beans over River Song

 

We stayed in bungalows right on the river's edge. The rain overnight meant there wasn't much space between the low wall beside us and the swirling brown stuff.

 

That was my room behind the balcony.

The room reminded me of a scene in a movie that I've forgotten the name of.

I got up early Sunday morning fearing that the gorgeous mountain mistiness would fade quickly.  It didn't - it hung around for hours. It was still worth getting up early though.

 Here's a few of my Sunday morning breakfast-time photos...

Misty and moody views

Some bungalows on the other side - and their taxi

 

Collecting little fish for making larp

 

 

And I did enjoin the view, even though I didn't take a baot.

(is it unfair to take the piss of poor spelling in a country like this?)

And if that's not enough misty, moody mountains for you, read on... I have thoughtfully stashed the rest of my pics behind the "read more" thing below. If you've had quite enough and want to quietly leave now, you are excused. But for connoisseurs of karsts and clouds...

What I reckon about this place

The following "opinion piece" (essay? ramble?) is just what I reckon and may not have any relationship with “the truth” (whatever that is)

Lao People’s Democratic Republic. Laos. One of the "last bastions of communist ideology".  It's tranquil. It’s hot. And often bit wet. Definitely confusing at times. Sometimes surprisingly organized. Usually it looks like chaos but everyone seems to be calm. I rarely hear a raised Lao voice or see anger or frustration. Except in crying babies. And even then not so much. Road rage doesn’t seem to exist – it’s certainly not common. It would be seriously frowned upon. The Lao way to deal with an idiot on a motorbike who cuts you off is to just make way for them. And smile. Plus the food is fabulous.

 

People generally seem sweet and caring. Twice I have lost my umbrella and twice people have made an effort to find me to give it back. One tuk tuk driver was doing laps looking for me to hand it back. People have asked me if I need help quite often (must be the confused look on my face). Haggling over prices is expected and done with a smile and a laugh.

Workplace health and safety stats how this place is a disaster zone. The APHEDA website  explains how this slow, beautiful, little country is one of the poorest in Asia and has one of the highest occupational death rates with 28.8 fatalities per 100,000 people, around nine times higher than Australia.

The importing and use of asbestos is scary. Canada, Russia and China are making a mint - not many other countries will buy their asbestos anymore. Laos will. The dangerous behaviours I see as I walk past any of the hundreds of construction sites is scary, too. I was sure the other day that I was about to witness a worker fall 20 metres to a nasty end. (He didn’t). The legal minimum wage is now $78 USD per month. Mid-level public servants earn around $300 per month (I think – hard to determine). (And my rent on a 2 bedroom flat is $400 per month)

 

Road accidents are common and fatalities and head trauma, especially in motorcycle accidents, are common and expensive. Helmet laws exist but are not well enforced.

After cremation, some people’s bones and ashes are placed in a jar (sometimes a recycled food jar with a plastic lid) and cemented into small spirit-house memorial things on pedestals with a picture and dates. No avoiding the reminder of your own mortality.

Religious things – temples, statues, spirit houses, monks, parades of people throwing rice, strings of flowers for hanging off religious things, offerings to the ancestors – are everywhere. Strangely, though, no one has asked me about my religious beliefs yet. (I copped this question often in Thailand where I think religion is generally a bigger deal than here).

As for many countries experiencing poverty, issues like saving the environment, raising the status of women, helping disadvantaged people achieve their potential, protecting owls and tigers and reducing the national intake of palm oil and MSG are pipe dreams. Or not even dreams – not even thoughts. Yet.

I’m told Vientiane is not like the rest of Laos. It’s not even like the Vientiane I remember from 15 years ago. It’s richer, there are fancy cars on paved roads, money has been poured into large, dramatic and impressive public buildings.  Many, many rice fields and traditional wooden homes have been bulldozed to make way for large concrete apartment blocks, hotels, office blocks and suburbs. There are fat locals around. Some people are doing well.

 

The rate that this place is growing is astounding. I can’t imagine how confusing it must be for older locals. Then again, most older locals are probably living in much improved conditions with running water and electricity (most of the time) and access to good quality tobacco. ‘I no complain’.

But there are still beggars, poverty, disease, infection, cross-infection, poor grubby hospitals, doctor shortages, long waiting lists for blood from the Red Cross, poorly constructed drains, broken footpaths and food handling standards and OHS regulations either don’t exist, are not enforced or not known. And it’s mostly really hot.

I haven’t seen the rest of Laos for ages but I’m reliably informed that’s where the abject poverty, lack of education and infrastructure, desperation and the farming of fields rife with unexploded bombs still are. I have heard several times about areas of the country that can’t access enough food for a couple of months each year so they all go hungry. No wonder people eat moles and bats and grasshoppers.

Rivers that I once was lucky enough to slowly traverse in a small local boat, are being dammed and villages and mountainsides are being flooded. Chinese money (mostly) and lots of foreign workers are changing the landscape. Powers-that-be want to change the economy of the nation by becoming the “Battery of Asia” – creating electricity to sell to Burma, Thailand, Vietnam, China and Cambodia. The Mekong is being depleted, the dolphins are nearly all gone (I heard there are 6 left) and elephants, tigers, rhinos and the Asian Unicorn (seriously! its called that) are endangered.

Unexploded bombs litter great tracts of land making it useless or dangerous. Limbs and lives are lost because of these little balls of horror.

Laos girls are sold into the sex industry and trafficked across the border. Access to young girls is promoted online by westerners seeking a Thai-beach-style experience for a few days. Women are generally seen as equal – equal pay, not-yet-equal-but-not-too-bad representation in government positions, power within the household – but held on tight leashes that control their behaviour, dress, looks and living arrangements. Mistresses are common, but a cheating wife is totally ostracized. Female sexuality is micro-managed so that they do not entice, infect or reduce protective charms or seduce boys, men and monks – unless they are supposed to (and then the skirts are very short and the bare shoulders shimmy).

I’ve heard people say they think the work ethic here is one of laziness. Sure, things work at a different pace, but I keep meeting really hard working people.  Many people have second jobs. Even third ones. My colleague Noy works all week and studies all weekend. She is doing a masters degree as well as raising two young kids, running the household and taking care of her husband and her widowed mother. She never has time off. She rushes home some lunch times to cook. Other lunch times, like right now as I write this, she is studying and finishing assignments at her desk. Her mother does a fair bit of the child minding. Noy says she is lucky because that means she can study.

Education is revered and getting a university degree is on the agenda for many, many kids – especially here in Vientiane, anyway. And overseas degree is even more desired. In the past , USSR and East Germany had scholarship arrangements and there are many Laos who speak German and some speak Russian. It’s that commie connection.

 

It’s SO BEAUTIFUL too.  After the heavy rains last night this morning was fresh and bright and clean. Flowering trees have enormous blossoms. Gold-painted eaves and gold leaf rubbings glint off temples, statues and pretty hanging things. Everyone smiles a lot. Barbecued banana for breakfast is the best. Pawpaw salad is tasty and fresh and delicious for lunch. Family is more important than work or career, work ethic is relaxed and if things can’t be done or take too much effort then maybe they aren’t that important after all. Individualism as we know it is unfamiliar  - why would anyone want to be alone when you can have love and support and friendship around you? People work to ensure strong emotions are not generated (not just quelled but not actually generated). Meditation and just sitting around are common pastimes. So is lying around in front of the TV. Internet access is everywhere in the city and cheap (albeit not always reliable). Many people have cable TV and watch a mix of Laos, Thai, Chinese and American TV shows. Usually bad ones in my opinion (Thai soaps have not improved in the years since I tried to follow one).

I’m rich here. Even just having a passport makes me rich (I can leave). I can afford to live alone. I work in an air conditioned office. I eat out as much as I want to. I can even afford to buy a 3 litre cask of gin (if I wanted to).

Life for me is good. I really hope in a year’s time I consider myself a small part of a solution rather than just a part of a problem. (And that I have lost a few kilos and have achieved an even tan on my feet.)

Flowers of Laos

These are not particularly great photos - but I think these are beautiful plants and flowers. Quite beautiful. I have no idea what most of them are. This makes me think how different gardening in the tropics would be.

 

 

 

But wait, there's more...

 

my dendrobium orchid

 

reminds me of a begonia but I don't think it is

 .......................................................................................................................

 

APRIL 2014. Dry Season - Flowering Trees Everywhere

A spot or two of rain to wash off the dust and the city is bloomingly gorgeous (if you don't look at the grunge, only at the flowers)

 

 

what is this palm?
 

 And further north, in Sam Neua province...